Some of the steepest discounts on Amazon never show up as a percentage-off "deal" at all — they're sitting in the used and "Warehouse" (Amazon's own open-box/returns program) listings on a product page, usually accessed through a small "other buying options" link rather than the main buy box.
What the condition grades actually mean
- "Like New" / "Renewed." Usually a returned item with packaging that's been opened and inspected. For a board game, this is typically indistinguishable from new once you're playing it — the box might have minor shelf wear.
- "Very Good" / "Good." May have noticeable box wear, shrink-wrap removed, or (occasionally) a previous owner's punched components. Worth checking the seller's specific condition notes, since "good" on a board game can mean anything from "box has a dent" to "components are incomplete."
- Third-party used listings. Unlike Amazon Warehouse, these come from individual sellers, so condition consistency varies more. Check seller ratings and read the specific condition notes rather than trusting the grade label alone.
The actual risk for board games specifically
The biggest risk with a used board game isn't cosmetic box wear — it's missing components. A deck of cards or a bag of cardboard tokens is easy for a previous owner to under-count when they don't realize a piece rolled under the couch. Sellers don't always catch this either. If a used copy is significantly cheaper than new and the savings matter, factor in a small risk that you may need to track down a replacement piece or two.
When it's worth it
For games with a lot of small loose components (deckbuilders, games with many tokens), buying new is the lower-hassle choice unless the discount is substantial. For games with a small component count or chunky pieces that are hard to lose, used and Warehouse listings are usually a safe way to save real money.